Now how can you come a tropical paradise with some of the best surfing in the world and not learn how to do it? I did a little homework and tried to find the best surf school for the money. Well, little did I know, the resort actually has the Hans Hedeman Surf School on site. We walked up to the office, paid our money and was scheduled for the first class next morning. Now I'm excited. I couldn't wait until tomorrow. As the sun came up the next morning, I realized that it's a little rainy and cloudy out. i was hoping that my class would not get cancelled due to bad weather. I called the surf school and asked the girl, are we still having our surf lesson today even though there's rain? She replied, "yeah, you're going to get wet anyways"! So downstairs to breakfast and then SURFING!!! We discovered that due to the WEATHER, our lessons have been moved to a different site. We were instructed to go to the beach in Haleiwa for our lesson. No big deal, just a short drive and we will be there. When we arrived at Haleiwa beach, we were greeted to by three very stereotypical surf dudes. They made us all pair up and grab two boards and head to the beach. On the beach, we got our basic instructions like how to pop-up and paddle. Soon enough, we placed our boards on the water and started heading out. This is f****** awesome! That's all that went through my head. So I'm up first, the wave is coming, the instructor hollers paddle and gives you a huge push and off you go. Paddling hard and fast, now hop to your knees, then plant your left foot in front of you, now stand up. D***! by the time I remember all the steps, the wave had passed and I of course fell off. Oh and don't forget, when you fall, fall on your belly or back. Huh!?!? Yeah! They told us that you would seriously injure yourself if you went head first or feet first because the very sharp rocks are on 4-5 feet below the water. Here we go again, paddling with all you got to try to get back to the pack. This is the hardest part by the way. Paddling back sucks! that's why surfers wait for the best waves and usually just sit out there and chill. Second attempt, here we go, paddle, push, hop-up, foot out, and I'm up! I rode my first wave! I didn't even fall off afterwards, I just laid back down on the board and started paddling back again. Thrid attempt, same steps, beautiful wave, and another success! Big wave! I fell off after riding this wave. I was having trouble getting back to my board because the waves just continued crashing on me pushing the board farther and farther away. so i garbbed the cord that secures my ankle to the board. BAD IDEA! My left pinky was apparently caught in a looped section of the cord and when a big wave crashed and yanked the board, it totally dislocated my left pinky. I felt a little pop and a little pain but didn't think twice about it. That is until I got back on my board and had to paddle. Ouch! What just happened I thought. I noticed my pinky was not in the right place at all. I thought to myself, I'll just reduce it myself and continue to surf and deal with this later. Do you know how hard it is to reduce your own pinky with wet tired hands? It's not easy. And it didn't really work. So I continued surfing and dealt with the pain discreetly. Everytime I stood up on that board and rode a wave, the pain was forgotten. Surfing - done!
Terrible picture, I was out of breath, salt in my eyes, and didn't have my glasses on. Not to mention, tired as hell!
The water looks so calm here but it wasn't
Everybody getting their boards ready
This was taken after I attempted to reduce it 10 times. It looks better than it did before!
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